Land Rover Discovery (Series I)
The Series I Discovery was Land Rover’s first attempt at bringing the comfort of the Range Rover and the off-road capability of the Defender 90 together. Built on the same platform as those two, the “D1” or “Disco,” as it is affectionately called, was a workhorse which could double as a comfortable daily driver, and could be had as an ultra-basic vehicle or loaded with all the amenities a person in the mid-90s could want. Although Land Rovers are famed for their unreliability, the 3.9L and 4.0L engines on offer in the D1 are stout, provided owners keep on top of oil leaks and other routine maintenance and don’t let the car overheat – it’s not unusual for these cars to hit 300k miles on their original engine. Despite its smaller size, the D1 featured full-float axles (unfortunately with the brake discs located inboard of the hubs) and a towing capacity of 7700 lbs.
Unfortunately, most of these cars have fallen into neglect thanks to uneducated or uncaring owners over the last couple decades, and most are “projects” at best. When well-sorted, however, they’re very comfortable, and are one of the most capable off-road vehicles ever made.
- Rear A/C (especially in hot climates)
- Rear jump seats
- Dual sunroofs (depending on your tolerance for electrical issues)
- LSE trim – adds wood trim everywhere, and replaces standard door panels with ones that have leather and wood inserts. It’s a nice cosmetic upgrade.
- Manual transmission – rare, and the transmission itself is worth money, as many in the community transplant them into the Range Rover Classic
- Off-road gear:
- Brush guard – especially OEM or one from ARB
- Steel bumpers – these were not original equipment, but many cars have aftermarket ones as the factory plastic bumpers are easy to rip off while off-roading
- Roof rack
- Rock sliders
- Off-road lights
- Rover V8 3.9L (MY94-96) – Most MY96 D1’s have the 4.0L GEMS engine, but some have the 3.9L Lucas engine with a distributor
- Rover V8 4.0L (MY96+) – All MY96+ D1’s use “GEMS” engines, including MY99, even though the “Bosch” engines debuted in MY99 on the Discovery 2 and the P38 Range Rover
- Low-range – linkage can seize if never used
- Front swivel balls – the seals tend to leak with age, and refilling them with “one shot” grease is a routine maintenance item. If all the grease is allowed to leak out, then the balls can get pitted and rust, necessitating their replacement. Most mechanics won’t touch this job – only specialized Land Rover shops and some 4×4 and import shops will. Expect about $1500-2000 for parts and labor to replace the balls and all seals, depending on the condition of the CV joints and drive hubs.
- Ignition cylinder – it will probably be binding and require some fiddling to start the car or remove the key. Most cars have some special method to do the above, but eventually, the cylinder will fully bind and require replacement.
- Window regulators (very easy and cheap to fix – see this video)
- Door lock actuators
- Cruise control – the cruise control system is vacuum operated; a D1 with functioning cruise control is a unicorn
- Interior lights
- ABS faults
- SRS faults
- Miscellaneous electrical issues may be caused by bad/corroded grounds or blown fuses (especially the #12 and #13 fuses) – check fuse panels underneath steering column and in engine bay as a first step in any electrical diagnostic work
Body & Cosmetic
- Rust, especially around alpine windows and wheel wells
- Hood release cable may be seized – if this is the case, have someone push down on and hit the hood while you try to pull the lever. If this does not work, try spraying a lubricant like PB Blaster (NOT WD-40) through the grille onto the latch, and repeat the process. Once hood is open, remove any obstructions to cable and fully lubricate both it and the latch. As you might imagine, the ability to open the hood is important when owning an old Land Rover.
- Door latches (interior and exterior, including trunk) can seize if not used for long periods of time
- Clear coat is susceptible to peeling, especially if car was not washed often
- Drooping headliner – requires removal of headliner panel and reupholstering of headliner; stapling the fabric down is only a temporary measure and won’t work long-term as the problem is due to degradation of the insulating foam
- Broken sun visor clips – these get brittle with age, but they are cheap and easy to replace
- The front seating position means that occupants can comfortably rest their arms on top of the door panels. This causes discoloration and eventually cracking.
- Vehicles with autodim rearview mirror: It is not uncommon for the ink to leak out and leave the mirror permanently dim
- Vehicles with seat heaters: The heating grid usually fails
- Vehicles with sunroofs: The general rule of thumb is that if it works when you test them, then never use them again so they don’t have a chance to break
- Vehicles with sunroofs: If the headliner is stained around sunroofs, chances are that the seals leak. This is a huge job to fix because it requires removing the entire sunroof assembly to replace the seal.
- Vehicles with leather seats: The leather is susceptible to wear/cracking/tearing
- Vehicles with power seats: The seat adjustment switches tend to break
- “Service Engine” light is different from a CEL and should be disregarded – its sole purpose is to remind the owner every 50k miles to visit a Land Rover dealership so that they can check the catalytic converters
- The SRS warning light will illuminate when the battery is disconnected or fully dies, and a trip to the dealer can reset it (or you can do it yourself if you have the proper diagnostic software). An illuminated SRS warning light does not necessarily mean there is a fault with a component.
- ABS warning lamp may illuminate on startup but disappear once vehicle starts moving – this is normal and does not indicate a fault in the system
Other Tips & Tricks
- MY94-95 vehicles don’t have OBD2. The Lucas 14CUX ECU has a small display underneath the passenger seat to display diagnostic trouble codes should you have a check engine light. The diagnostic connector is located underneath the driver-side lower dashboard – it’s a blue five-pin connector, which requires special cables and hardware to use.
- ABS faults can be diagnosed without special software using the blink method